Quality Peoples

A few days ago, we were all enjoying the 8-10 foot waves rolling through, there’s been a large storm off south america pushing a large swell into Mexico’s left coast. The waves were overhead and as soft as puppies. You could drop into the breaking white water and still have plenty of time to adjust and hit the face. The last few rays of sunshine dipped below the horizon and I grabbed one last wave and headed in. As I stood on the beach, peeling off my flight jacket, a monster set rolled in and one of the locals dropped into the first wave. He was half way down the face, standing almost straight up, weaving across it and I could see that the lip was still a few feet over his head. He leaned on the tail, slowing him down a little bit and the white lip engulfed him for a second and he was gone only to re-emerge from the whiteness, cut down the face and back up again. Double Overhead.

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