So for the past two days Tropical Storm Dalila has been sending some nice waves our way. The storm swell started hitting Tuesday evening with the heavy sections rolling in through the night and Wednesday morning. I woke up at 6:30am, Wednesday after a long night of restless sleep, constantly waking to the sound and vibration of 5 footers hitting the beach here in Bucerias, definitely a rarity. Veneros was solid overhead but also chunky and closing out, heavy shizz. So I headed over to El Paredon, huge, with shoulder to head rollers. I had the break almost to myself (+3 others) for almost 2 hours. I think I set a personal record for most consecutive waves in one session. It was semi-epic. I rode the fish, which was a bit of a bummer, the rails are so thick, I couldn’t get the turns I really like and it’s so fast, I often out-ran the wave, cutting back, but occasionally leaving myself on the shoulder, out of the action. With the speed though, I could drop in on sections far more inside then usual, which is always nice.
I went out again, Wednesday afternoon, but the winds were so heavy it was blowing everything out. I dropped by ‘El Punto’, the point beach break here in Bucerias, that doesn’t break very often. There were tons of kids in the water and steady lines of waves rolling in, gorgeous. Thursday morning, I went down to El Punto again to check the local scene. Again, tons of kids in the water and Andrew was getting is surf on. I made an ill-fated decision to go up to Veneros again, instead of just jumping in the local break, and spent an hour paddling around Veneros’ ugly, wind-blown, overhead break. Trying not to get broken by the heavy, heaving slabs. Grabbed one wave and in futility went home, not a good day for the fish. note to self: get shortboard fixed, like now please.
It was a pretty good coupla days, but the storm swell brought with it a gang of wind that made the swell choppy and all over the place. Nothing more heart breaking then seeing head high waves that are completely unridable. But we all did our best and after having gone so long without some legitimate swell, it was nice to see everyone out there scraping for what they could. Two days later and el mar is starting to flatten out again and we all sit and wait for the next big swell…
It was kinda cool to find your blog. I used to live in Puerto Vallarta and Veneros (especially El Paredon) was my favorite surf spot ever. It has been a long time since I’ve surfed so my heart longs the moment to reunite with that spiritual love affair between nature and I. I do rejoice to learn that people like yourself have had the blessings of a good swell. Carry on and if you ride a real nice, glassy, fun ‘kahuna’, say a prayer for us surfers that can’t be there. God Bless!