Once Upon A Time In New York
Produced and Directed by Andy Martin and Norman Lomax
Written by Andy Martin in association with Sigmund Freud
“Steven Kotler has argued (in his book “West of Jesus: Science, Surfing, and the Origins of Belief”) that there is a neurochemistry of surfing that tends to produce a heightened receptivity to feelings of transcendence. Perhaps there is no activity that is not potentially philosophical, but it has always seemed to me that the collision of (as Sartre would say) the in-itself (the wave) and the for-itself (the surfer), with all its possible outcomes of pleasure and pain (the wipe-out and the hold-down), and especially the tube-ride, with its narrative of being buried and then (ideally) re-born, naturally gives rise to a contemplative state.” – Andy Martin
via @natebroshot, nice find brah.